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January 14, 2008
mixed bag climbing weekend
Back in July I set a climbing goal to lead a grade 21 (5.11a) by Australia Day and with only three more weekends to go I set out this weekend to send "Palm Sunday" - a 10m crimpy face climb that I climbed on top rope way back in 1997. I remember liking it and felt it suited my climbing style. Saturday morning Amy, Tim and I headed out early - hoping to beat the forecasted 30 degree heat. We started with a short warm up on a grade 15 (5.7) called "Taylor Made" - Tim wanted to lead it and he did a fine job of it too. There's a grade 18 (5.10a) just next to it called "Look Blue Go Purple" which I top roped in April and wanted to actually lead it and since we where there... Well, for some reason I couldn't remember the sequence. I wasn't confident with the holds, with my feet, with the route, with anything really and the heat and humidity so... we put up a top rope and i repeated the climb - fell once - argh - for me, it wasn't a good day at the rock and I had to keep reminding myself that a bad day at the crag is better than a good day at work.
So - we packed up, stopped at the local fish shop and picked up a huge red snapper for the bbq - stuffed that bad boy with chili, lime and lemon-grass and wrapped it in foil and put it on the barbie. Michelle met us at home and the four of us had a huge lunch and wasted the hot afternoon away playing Wii.
Sunday morning - not as hot. Tim and I headed back to Berowra early while Amy slept in - I had a full on assault of Palm Sunday in mind and reckoned I only had until about 10:30 or 11:00 before it got too hot. Started with an on sight warm up of a grade 17 (5.9) called "Yesterday's Heroes" - OK, um, I had to down climb the start a couple times as I was still a little spooked from Saturday - but that still counts as an 'on sight' as I didn't fall or get lowered :)
I gave Tim a belay on Yesterday's Heroes to clean it and then I put him to work while I took on Palm Sunday. First step was a bolt to bold lead - taking a rest at each bolt - looking, sorting out the sequence and then moving to the next bolt. When I lowered back to the ground Tim noted that it actually took me 20 minutes to climb 10 meters that way :) no worries this was about learning the moves. Next step was to climb it on the top rope (which went in one go) and then lowering down to about the half way point and re-doing the top sequence - trying different things then rehearsing what I thought was the best sequence - must have climbed the top half 6 times. After lowering I did one more quick run up it on top rope while I was tired and it felt hard! I knew i had the sequence down and was ready (after a half hour rest) to lead it. And that's just what I did. It must have been around 11:00 and close to 27 degrees and I lead Palm Sunday in a 'pink point' style. Yay! Grade 21 by Australia Day 2008 - and with two weeks to spare.
I celebrated with Amy and a nice bottle of Champagne.
Hmm - grade 24 (5.12a) by my 40th Birthday... that's about 7 months from now and it 's a very, very hard goal. And I'm still aiming for it. Anything to keep my mind off the big four oh - eh?
Posted by yankinoz at January 14, 2008 06:33 AM
Comments
Congrats, Rob! Your goals are impressive, and your accomplishments in life more so. Love ya!
Mom and Dad
Posted by: Dad at January 14, 2008 09:31 AM
KAAAAAHHHHNNNN
Nice work mate on this. Really glad that you completed it. You really worked it well mate!
Posted by: monkeypushovertree at January 15, 2008 12:38 PM
mmmmm....moet....
Posted by: your wife at January 30, 2008 09:26 PM
and I'm so proud of you baby! Bring on Fear and Loathing
Posted by: your wife at January 30, 2008 09:27 PM
