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April 07, 2008
climbing update
this is starting to turn into a climbing blog :) well I won't be climbing outside for the next two weeks - heading back to the USA to spend some quality time with Amy.
This past weekend I went climbing with the intention of climbing a grade 22 (5.11b) which would equal an old personal best which dates back to 1996 - I still have that goal of climbing a 24 by August and 22 is the next stepping stone.
Tim, Gaby and I stayed local on Sunday at a little crag in Narrabeen. There's a group of three 22s there that share a common start. After warming up on a couple of easy climbs Gaby and Tim wanted to do a traditional route called 'Common Origin' - this was when Jo arrived and I was like - perfect timing! Jo can belay me on one of the 22s called 'Show Us Your Ticks.'
Well the common start was definitely the crux! the on site attempt ended in a small and very safe fall (nice catch Jo! thank you!) and several (half dozen i suppose) attempts didn't get me much closer to the big holds above the very blank budging face. I eventually pulled up on gear to gain the second bolt and clip it. lowered back down the the crux and gave it another half dozen tries.... sigh. I actually said out loud "I don't think I can do this" pulled back up on the gear and climbed the rest of the route - which was, as it turned out, a very fun climb.
With the rope set up from the top, Jo wanted to give it a go. I was impressed as this climb is a couple grades harder than anything I've seen Jo attempt before but with the top rope, things are pretty safe so she did give it a go. And her method of doing the crux was totally different than mine. While she didn't get it to stick - I was like - OHHH THAT WILL WORK! After Jo was done I tried it again on top rope using Jo's sequence and it worked! woo hoo! so I lowered back down and rehearsed the crux a few more times and then did the whole thing on top rope and was like - I can do this on lead! I know it.
Soooo after a half hour rest. With Jo's trusty belay. The climb went clean. Again a well worked route, a plan that came together, a goal attained. Heaps of thanks to Jo Brothers as with out her I don't think I would have figured out that crux. Woo Hoo.
Two more steps to 24. Next couple of weekends after I get back from the States I plan to work routes in the 19-22 range and should attempt a 23 by the end of May. Right now, 24 by my 40th is feeling very, very possible.
And a big shout out to Tim who had his first grade 18 on sight. NICE!
Posted by yankinoz at April 7, 2008 04:11 AM
