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March 23, 2009

low gravity days

photo by monkey - climb called 'M' grade 19, Dam Cliffs, Blue Mountains

Sunday was a 'low gravity day' - I felt strong. Like I could climb anything. I climbed 19s, a 21 (a really hard 21!) and a 22 - the 22 I did on my first attempt. Called "Friendly Fire" it's considered 'soft' for the grade but I don't care. I did it on my first go (and at least one of the moves was super hard.) While I would love to call it an 'on sight' I did have a bit of beta and - well the draws were already on it... climbers call it a 'flash' - to climb something clean on your first go with some knowledge of the climb first.

Happy Rob

Posted by yankinoz at 07:26 PM | Comments (4)

March 21, 2009

La Sportiva Muira VS review

I posted a few weeks ago that I picked up my first pair of Velcro climbing shoes. I've long resisted the Velcro - with laces I think I have better control over how tight the shoe is around my toes - that and I find the pre-climb ritual of tyeing my shoes helps to calm the nerves. Well, after I'd pretty much warn out my second pair of La Sportiva Miuras I finally caved to the Velcro version - The Miura VS. They felt great in the shop and after some gym climbing and gym bouldering I quickly came to the conclusion that they are just like the Miuras, only better. A key difference between the Miura VS and other Velcro shoes I've tried is the Miura VS's third Velcro strap – down low near the toe so I can really cinch em up when I need to.

I finally got them out on real rock a couple weeks ago. The climb is These People are Sandwiches. It's a 15 meter grade 22 and I had not climbed a 22 in nearly a year (and is my hardest grade to date.) I wasn't able to flash it (that is climb it on my first attempt) but I did get it clean on my second attempt. The photo is from that assent.

The Muira VS did not let me down. They actually feel a bit more sensitive and a bit more focused then the Miura, but then my Miura are pretty well trashed. If you're thinking about em - go for it. You won't be let down. After a month I'm kinda wishing I had gone down one half size from my Muira size (like they are almost too comfortable) but that said, I'm not feeling any slippage or movement in the shoe. Just some of my own questionable footwork :-)
Photo Mel Smith

Posted by yankinoz at 09:16 AM | Comments (0)

March 12, 2009

C Ray Anderson archives-085

Posted by yankinoz at 08:31 PM | Comments (0)