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March 21, 2009
La Sportiva Muira VS review

I posted a few weeks ago that I picked up my first pair of Velcro climbing shoes. I've long resisted the Velcro - with laces I think I have better control over how tight the shoe is around my toes - that and I find the pre-climb ritual of tyeing my shoes helps to calm the nerves. Well, after I'd pretty much warn out my second pair of La Sportiva Miuras I finally caved to the Velcro version - The Miura VS. They felt great in the shop and after some gym climbing and gym bouldering I quickly came to the conclusion that they are just like the Miuras, only better. A key difference between the Miura VS and other Velcro shoes I've tried is the Miura VS's third Velcro strap – down low near the toe so I can really cinch em up when I need to.
I finally got them out on real rock a couple weeks ago. The climb is These People are Sandwiches. It's a 15 meter grade 22 and I had not climbed a 22 in nearly a year (and is my hardest grade to date.) I wasn't able to flash it (that is climb it on my first attempt) but I did get it clean on my second attempt. The photo is from that assent.
The Muira VS did not let me down. They actually feel a bit more sensitive and a bit more focused then the Miura, but then my Miura are pretty well trashed. If you're thinking about em - go for it. You won't be let down. After a month I'm kinda wishing I had gone down one half size from my Muira size (like they are almost too comfortable) but that said, I'm not feeling any slippage or movement in the shoe. Just some of my own questionable footwork :-)
Photo Mel Smith
Posted by yankinoz at March 21, 2009 09:16 AM


